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By Frederick Armstrong
Again this July, as I have done the two preceding Julys, I served as a sommelier for IPNC. No, I’m not talking about the Intergalactic Pinochle National Championship, I’m talking about the International Pinot Noir Celebration.
What is IPNC? Well, winemakers and Pinot enthusiasts from all around the globe gather in McMinnville the last weekend in July to eat, drink and learn about Pinot Noir. Oregon wines are showcased along with others from California, Burgundy, New Zealand and Chile. Essentially, it is the ultimate Pinot party.
Serving as a sommelier at IPNC is not an easy task—it’s a lot of hard work—but it is definitely an honor, as the IPNC board looks for people with experience and a grounded career in wine service.
We are put though rigorous tests by IPNC director, Amy Wesselman, which include pouring wine, staying up late, pouring wine while tired, pouring wine while in formal wear outside in hot July weather while hung over, pouring wine while standing on one foot while doing the waltz. Well okay, maybe not that tough, but you get the idea.
This year, IPNC celebrated 20 years. To mark the 20th anniversary, it officially unveiled the new Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir glass. In fact, George Riedel was on hand for the event, and registered attendees received one of these beautiful new pieces of stemware that resemble the classic Riedel Burgundy bowl, but with a flared rim.
This year also marked the first time IPNC has kicked off with bubbles. The Friday morning event began with a seminar and a tasting of sparkling wine. Until the moment it went off without a hitch, it had Wesselman quivering in her boots.
We almost felt like secret agents out of a movie as we strutted our formalwear and tuxedos on that warm July morning. Okay, maybe less like a spy and more like a waiter, as we had to pour two flights of six glasses of sparkling wine (many from magnums and three-liter bottles) to hundreds of guests in a matter of minutes. Now you know why Ms. Wesselman’s blood pressure was about to be questioned by every doctor in the neighborhood.
Guests of the IPNC were also treated to lunch at one of the local wineries, not only hosted by the winery, but co-hosted by out-of-state wineries, as well. Participants boarded a bus to go to their unknown mystery winery destination for a lesson in wine education, as well as a gourmet meal prepared by a top chef.
This was the one time we sommeliers got to dress down in IPNC T-shirts and shorts. We arrived at the winery shortly before the bus (yes, we knew the secret location, but if we told you, we would have to… you know) to assist in setting up for the seminar and lunch service. This was the second year in a row I was able to work with Cathy Whims from Nostrana (formerly of Genoa) for the lunch.
This is the most difficult part of the weekend—working right in the kitchen with someone like Cathy Whims, and keeping my grubby hands off the food. Fortunately, after the guests departed, there were leftovers—both in bottle and on plate—so we got to wash down the amazing food with equally amazing wine.
Friday evening ended with the Grand Dinner, a five-course meal co-prepared by all of the different chefs for the event and held under the beautiful, late July moonlight. IPNC participants seemed to really enjoy the lavish food and endless flow of Pinot Noir. I wouldn’t know. As a sommelier I poured the wine, and never tasted the food. Cue the violins.
But, that was Friday night. Saturday night was a different matter. Instead of Friday’s salivating over remarkable food and wine with no real consolation, halfway through the Saturday night Salmon Bake, we were relieved by other volunteers and were able to partake.
This was definitely a more casual affair (although somms were still in formal wear) and possibly the most enjoyed event of the entire weekend. A big fire pit was made where the salmon was cooked and served buffet style. Wine still flowed freely and many people brought some of their most treasured wines from the cellar to consume and share.
The final morning consisted of bleary-eyed, slightly hung-over participants enjoying a farewell Champagne brunch. It has become tradition that every year the bleary-eyed sommeliers wear their formal tuxedos, with short pants and sunglasses to hide the bleary eyes.
After the brunch, the optional Passport to Pinot started where all of the participating wineries poured samples of their wine. At this point, the work weekend was over and the sommeliers got to go through the brunch line.
After we loaded up our plates with food and grabbed some Champagne, we headed out to picnic tables. This actually turned out to be one of the highlights of the weekend for me.
One of the other sommeliers, Jackie Cooke from Alberta, Canada, worked in a restaurant where they would open bottles of wine with a saber. She gave us a crash course and I was the first volunteer, waving my hands, eager to play with sharp objects while drinking alcohol—always a good idea… NOT! Kids, don’t try this at home.
I took a large chef’s knife to stand in as a saber, and with Jackie’s instructions, I warmed up the weak spot on the bottle, gave three good whacks toward the cork and off came the top of the bottle. Boy, we wine geeks sure get our kicks in some strange ways. Of course, now I am working on perfecting my technique.
It was a weekend filled with good friends, good wine and a lot of hard work, but it was most satisfying. If you have never attended the IPNC, I do recommend you check it out next year, and see why wine lovers from all over the globe flock to Oregon to enjoy this phenomenal event. ◊
Fred Armstrong is a proud sommelier and the owner of a new business, World in a Glass Wine Consultants based in Portland. Check out Fred’s free wine education videos at www.worldinaglass.com.
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